Colicchio And Sons
Let me begin with our departure from dinner. As we left the dining room and passed the open kitchen on our way out the door, I noticed Tom Colicchio, the celebrity chef and meticulous critic himself, standing next to me. I offered my had to introduce myself and what I said in my head was, “how is it possible we just ate a mediocre meal with you standing here managing the kitchen? You served up overcooked steak. Come on!” However, the words that actually came out of my mouth were, “Well, hello. I’m Mary Rambin. Thank you for having us…oh yes, we did enjoy it. Have a good night.”
Chicken! I know. But you can’t insult a man in his own kitchen, can you? Certainly not.
Backing up now, I’ll tell you what led me to my internal aggressive commentary. Colicchio closed CraftSteak saying he would reopen the venue as a more comfortable, personal space. I had never eaten at Craftsteak so I couldn’t compare the two, but I do know that what I saw when I entered was anything but cozy and quaint . With sleek dark wood and vaulted ceilings, the decor was actually quiet modern. However, it is a beautiful space to dine. I’m not a fan of open kitchens so the fact that his was right behind the hostess stand was a bit audacious, but I was willing to let it slide because it was SPOTLESS.
Looking back now I see the Tap Room as being the key to enjoying this restaurant. The setting is more casual, the brews on tap are distinctive, and the menu is a-la-carte.
In the main dining room, the noise echos off the high ceilings so you can barely hear the person sitting next to you screaming that their steak is dry. Yes, you heard me, overcooked sirloin! The rest of the prix-fixe meal was nothing to write home about either so I’m not going to bore you with the details.
The writer for New York Magazine seemed to share my sentiments and goes into much more detail in her review if you are interested.
I honestly was disappointed with Tom’s showing. He failed to offer a more personal experience or decent food. I might return for a pale ale and something simple in the Tap Room if I’m downtown meeting up for drinks, but I wouldn’t go out of your way to make it over to the west side.
When I arrived back in H-town and asked friends what new restaurant they were loving, they all had the same answer, “we went to that new Mexican place off Kirby and it’s AMAZING. One of our new favorites and it has a good crowd. It’s called Yelapa, you have to go.”
Well ok then.
So on Monday Trey and I went to see what all the fuss was about. After a three course meal over two hours, I still can’t imagine how Yulapa is the talk of the town.
In my heart I know it was an off night because when I tell you this story, you won’t believe it.
We arrived to a half empty restaurant, but of course we still knew a couple sitting at one of the front tables. They insisted this was one of the best meals they have devoured in a while. No one would be able to tell they dined on chicken and salmon because their plates were wiped clean. For an appetizer, they shared a guacamole the woman insisted was “unlike any guac you’ve ever laid your lips on.” One of the ingredients was cinnamon, so this could have been true.
Apparently our table was doomed for failure because our experience wasn’t even close to complimentary. I’ll try to summarize. To begin, the waiter served us room temperature chardonnay…twice! Jay, the manager, came over to apologize, so I told him I would be writing a review (thinking this might get them on their game). So I wasn’t surprised when LJ Wiley (the Executive Chef who worked with legends like Jean George) came out with a complimentary appetizer. But I was surprised he would choose raw aged Kobe beef to bestow on guests who ordered all fish. Either way, the cut was mediocre at best.
We then waited another 20 minutes before receiving the citrus ceviche the waiter had reccommended. Again, not up to snuff with other local favorites. Although the catch was incredibly fresh, the huge chunks of fish and fruit made it impossible to get a taste of everything on one fork. When the entrees finally made it to the table, we found the mahi mahi to be cold and overcooked. The specialty cesaer salad should have been chopped and tossed, but they chose presentation instead of preparation. Now tragedy strikes. The flavors of both dishes were truly unique and uplifting instead of heavy. I wouldn’t refer to either as Mexican because Wiley’s sides and spices added complexity to the classic centerpieces and showed the possibility for perfection. After we cleaned the plates (out of shear hunger), Jay returned to ask why we didn’t dig into the pork belly that accompanied the fish. “It really makes the whole dish. Usually I have to come over and tell people to try it and then it’s gone within seconds,” he said. Figures. As for dessert, Jay brought over a Cinco Leches cake that sounded divine, but I’m sure you won’t be surprised when I tell you it was dry as a bone. Follow that up with cold coffee and let’s just call it a night, shall we? Oh, and on your way out, please don’t notice the two women enjoying a nice hot chocolate cake covered in cream.
The worst part about this experience is that I truly believe we just fell into the wrong reservation. I think Wiley’s menu is inspired and offeres Houston a refreshing perspective on a local favorite cuisine. The complexity of the spice combinations reflects a deep understanding and passion for food.
A long story long…..You will find me there again to give chef LJ Wiley , an active twitterer, another shot to make my taste buds tingle.
Yelapa – 2303 Richmond, Houston TX 713-501-0391
(Full Disclosure: The kobe appetizer, dessert, and warm wine was comped by the restaurant.)
Photos via restaurant website.
I believe New York Magazine wrote the most descriptive and accurate review of Co, it’s innovator Jim Lahey, and the rustic pies that made me double over in delight, but I’m going to give you my opinion anyway.
Damn that’s good pizza.
I’m usually the girl who passes on pizza all the while gazing at the dripping cheese with a lust that rivals a dog begging for bacon scraps at breakfast. So when a long time friend insisted we go to Co. for lunch, I decided to join him for JUST ONE slice.
Fortunately, or unfortunately depending how you look at it, they don’t serve pizza by the slice, they offer you perfectly crafted pies made on homemade bread covered in authentic Italian toppings. The combinations are so perfect, they won’t let you change or add any items. The dilemma is not that you can’t have it your way, but you then have to choose between 10 pies that each sound so divine.
We opted for the ham (prosciutto) and cheese and the Stracciatella (topped with roasted tomatoes, creamy buffalo mozzarella, and arugula) which was the clear winner. My one piece quickly turned into three….ok, three and a half. And just like in Italy, the fresh ingredients proved to be satisfying and not overwhelming.
The only part of your experience that might be a bit disturbing are the close quarters you must keep to enjoy your meal. Two tops are stacked closely and a communial table sits center stage in the small eatery.
So go on an off hour, find a space to kick back and enjoy a slice of heaven right here on the island.
Company – 230 Ninth Ave @ W 24th St 212-243-1105
My first article went up today on CultureMap.com – a digital guide to Houston’s best all laid out for you on an interactive map (very cool!). My lists below for people who have been to LA once or twice.
It’s time to pack up your burnt orange polos and head west to watch the Longhorns roll over the Crimson Tide. With all of the excitement, you might have forgotten to plan your extra day in LA. Being a native Houstonian, I know the bright lights of Hollywood and price tags of Rodeo Drive can be intimidating, so I’ve laid out a few itineraries you’ll enjoy and be able to navigate.
The Big Spender
• Enjoy a light and healthy bite at Urth Café for breakfast.
• Browse the best boutiques on Robertson Boulevard.
• Share a McCarthy salad at The Polo Lounge at The Beverly Hills Hotel.
• Pick up a Sprinkles cupcake on your way to Rodeo Drive to shop designer brands.
• Polish up with my favorite mani-pedi at Golden Nail ($40).
• Devour the city’s best at The Bazaar at The SLS Hotel, Mozza Osteria or Phillipe.
• Make your way to Chateau Marmont or The Montage for post-dinner drinks.
For the Fashionista
• Grab a nonfat mocha latte from Coffee Bean on your way to browse Robertson Boulevard.
• Power walk up an appetite to be satisfied at Toast or Joan’s on Third.
• Pray for sales as you shop on Melrose from West to East – Marc Jacobs, DVF, Madison Warehouse Sale Store, Fred Segal, and BCBG clearance store. Drive east on Melrose, turn right on La Brea and hit American Rag just south of First Street.
• Get all dressed up for the scene at Katana or Terroni.
• Flirt with the hottest Cali boys at The Roger Room, Winston’s, Guys and Dolls, Jane’s House or 1912.
Goofing Off With The Boys
• Fill a grumbling tummy at The Griddle (Local tip: Pumpkin pancakes are to die for).
• Take a hike up Runyon Canyon to see the city from up top.
• Devour an “animal style” burger In-N-Out (just like The Dude).
• Stroll Hollywood and see the stars.
• Take down 2-for-1 cocktails at Cabo Cantina’s happy hour.
• Make your way to Bar Marmont, Jones Hollywood or 8 ounce for a great meal.
• Hit up The Village Idiot afterwards. You’ll be able to get into this bar!
A Day Outdoors on The West Side (Don’t worry, it’s not too cold.)
• Either walk the beach boulevard on Venice Beach to people watch or enjoy a gentle morning hike up Temescal Canyon or through Will Rogers Park.
• Lunch at Café Montana or R+G on Montana Avenue.
• Stroll the shops on Montana Avenue.
• Enjoy drinks while watching the sunset at Casa Del Mar.
• Dinner at The Ivy, Cafe Montana, Father’s Office (supposedly the best burger, that’s all they have), The Wilshire
• After dinner: The rooftop restaurant at The Huntley
Really + Disappointing - R+D Kitchen (Santa Monica, CA)
After hearing Andy rave about the cafe on Montana and having one great experience with the chain (at the Dallas location) under my belt, I was expecting great things from R+D Kitchen when we ventured west for dinner on Sunday night.
Founded by the owners of Houston’s, R+D has to meet a certain standard. We expect flavorful dishes and friendly service in a comfortable atmosphere. In most cases two outta three ain’t bad, but in this scenario it’s really disappointing.
The menu failed me completely. Apparently, the restaurant was opened as a testing ground for new dishes for Houston’s and Watergrill, but due to popular demand, began serving a few items regularly. “Few” being the opperative word here. The whole menu consists of maybe 20 boring options (including apps) and a couple of nightly specials. We dined on pasta from a box topped with rubbery chicken meatballs and cold brocolli as well as the boiled cod special, which actually didn’t make me cringe but didn’t blow me away either. When the server tells you the burger is the best thing on the menu, that should be a sign you did not choose the restaurant wisely.
With Cafe Montana only a few blocks away, I really don’t see the need to waste your time at R+D unless you’re looking for a lite bite in a bar setting or just need a reason to get frustrated.
Restaurants become a standard due to their food and clientle. And when the spot is always hot, sometimes the food slips. But when you’re calling weeks ahead to get a reservation and paying big bucks for spaghettti with meat sauce, you want it to be damn good.
The other night I ate at Dan Tana’s – a legendary restaurant in LA – and the food was horrible. I was served an unrecognizable “white” fish and friends dined on Italian classics that tasted like Stouffer’s frozen tv dinners.
After I made the list below I realized the majority of the local favorites are still reliable, but we have to keep demanding the best from them. Just because Halle Barry is sitting next to you or Robert De Niro owns the joint does not make chewy gnocchi acceptable.
Here I offer a list of LA’s most popular Italian restaurants
Salivate and Stargaze at:
Don’t Bother Setting Foot In:
Local Favorites:
Il Moro – Los Angeles
Most people who frequent this lovely West LA classic Italian eatery don’t care about the Benjamins they will be spending on the check, but more importantly about the power play and bigger bucks to be made over the mouth-watering meal. In other words, it’s one of the quintessential Hollywood networking hot spots for agents, producers, and actors.
It just so happens the food is fantastic. Italian dishes that would usually require a subsequent nap are fresh and light so you don’t feel stuffed after you put away a plate of pasta. Although the offering is not exactly what you’d find in Italy, the dishes are classic yet distinct.
Enjoy your meal on the terrace or at the white linen tables inside. The whole experience is delightfully delicious.
(Photo via)
The Hotel Zaza – Houston and Dallas
Last week I attended two events for Catwalk for the Cure, both held at the Hotel Zaza in Houston. It was so refreshing to be back there again! Then, while enjoying a plate of their famous grilled quail, it dawned on me that while I had referenced my experiences there this summer, I had never told you why I enjoyed it so much.
Let’s put aside the fact I now know the staff personally at both locations of the Zaza, but instead focus on how and why that came to be.
What seems like forever ago, my friend Jen took me to the hard hat event when the Houston location was under construction, but I wouldn’t set foot into the finished product until years after it’s opening.
After hearing the rave reviews, I referred a friend visiting Houston to the hotel and went to meet him for a drink one night. When I pulled up to the valet I felt like they were rolling out the welcome mat just for me. Entering the lobby I was instantly in love with the modern, eclectic decor, and when I found my friend had not yet arrived at Monarch, the manager bought me a drink and chatted with me until he arrived. I’m pleased to call Alex (the manager) a friend now as well.
Sure you could say he was just making small talk with a pretty girl, but I’ve since heard the same account from several other people. Alex wouldn’t be the only friendly member of their staff. With a simple hello, I befriended many others and now keep up with them on Facebook!
So obviously I was instantly enamored, so I wanted to know more about the space, the people, and everything they had to offer. Here’s what I found:
GREAT THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES
Both hotels have a more intimate feeling than your average Ritz or Four Seasons. Honestly, I have no idea if there are less rooms, but it feels like a smaller, more personable space than the aforementioned chains. So not only is the price point better, but so is the ambiance.
In terms of the hotel itself, Zaza Houston (built on the skeleton of the historic Warwick hotel) is a bigger location but maintains the boutique feel of the original in Dallas. The rooms boast a modern but comfortable decor with cozy beds and Molton Brown toiletries . From my experience, it seems the rooms in Dallas a little bigger and more plush. My favorite feature are the “Seven Wonders of the World” suites that are decorated in different themes like Rock Star, China, Space age, etc. And don’t even get me started on the rooftop “Black Label” suite with the amazing views you can enjoy from the gigantic bathtub on the balcony (God only knows what has gone on in there).
If you’re into the celeb scene, the Zaza is a good spot for sightings. Many times I stopped by stars like Kid Rock and Young Jeezy were residing in the suites.
FINE DINING I CAN AFFORD
Downstairs in the restaurants – Monarch in Houston and Dragonfly in Dallas – you’ll find a menu with a little taste of every cuisine. Both the Houston chef Aaron Neeley and Grant Morgan in Dallas update their menu seasonally. In fact, the dinner I attended last Thursday was a sampling of their new fall menu. People loved the steak, but we all agreed the scallops were some of the best we’ve ever tasted. Consistent favorites of mine are the grilled quail, deconstructed ahi roll, and their fish specials.
As with most restaurants right now, they usually offer a special promotion. Right now if you mention “Fall 09” you will get 15% off your meal. Mondays they have half off all bottles of wine, and Wednesdays the whole menu is discounted fifty percent. So you can see it was an easy sell to get me to come on multiple occasions. Rumor has it they are also starting “reverse happy hour.” Another winner in my book!
As for the dessert (I mention this because my request has fallen on deaf ears), don’t be deceived by the sound of the red velvet cupcakes. Even if you’re an amateur when it comes to sweets, you’ll be highly disappointed by the bite-sized blandness. I’m pretty sure the cupcakes are my only real complaint about the hotel actually…..
BE SWEET TO YOURSELF
But I’ll tell you something you can indulge in without guilt – the spa! I didn’t get a chance to go to the one in Dallas during my stay, but if the Houston one is any indication, I can recommend them both without hesitation. First of all, they have these pedicure chairs that tilt you backwards so you’re laying comfortably while the esthetician is meticulously primping your feet. Then if you decide to get actual treatments, they have a fully equipped locker room and a delightfully dark lounge with beds for you to await your service. The facial was acceptable and left my skin glowing, but the massage from Emin (who is often referred to as “AMEN”) is ridiculous. After an hour rub down I asked him how he was able to control the hot rocks over the contours of my back. His response, “what rocks?” What felt like warm stones were actually his strong, oh-so-smooth hands. Holy moly y’all. Holy moly.
POOLSIDE PEEPS
I actually started spending time at the hotel because of the pool. Due to their summertime Urban Oasis, I enjoyed the peaceful patio during the week, and then throwing back a few Coronas with a fun crowd on the weekends. Ok, so the weekends would get a little rough in Houston, but Dallas was the trendy place to be seen. I wasn’t really into the whole wearing heels in my bikini, but my gladiators worked as well. Either way, at both hot spots, the people watching was unprecedented. (Because of the recession, most hotels were opening up their pool area to locals to drive business, Zaza was no different.)
YOUR LUXE HOME
After college, Andy and I frequented the Beverly Hills Hotel so it became like our “home away from home.” Unfortunately I was never able to find a place I wanted to hang my hat in NYC. The Zaza welcomed me with open arms and it’s always nice to return for a visit. And I know they will do the same for you.
(**In total, Hotel Zaza generously comped a 4 night stay in Dallas as well as 3 spa treatments.)
La Vista – Houston, Tx
I bet you’ve forgotten about this classic Italian (used to be only BYOB) in the shopping center on Fountainview (near San Felipe). I did. So last week Mom and I walked down from her store Encore to rediscover their rustic Italian dishes that suited our tummies and our wallets.
I’ve never had a dish I didn’t like, and I’m sticking to that story. Super casual, great for group dinners, and like I said, always delicious.
